#Sustainability

2024-01-12

OEKO-TEX® New regulations 2024

Creating trust within the textile and leather industry and for its customers is the mission of OEKO-TEX®. Since trust is based on consistently high quality, the OEKO-TEX® Association is again publishing updates to the applicable test criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications. Based on new scientific findings and legal developments, the OEKO-TEX® Association has published the annual updates to its test criteria, limit values and guidelines.

With one exception, the new regulations will come into force on April 1, 2024, after the regular transition period. For the ban on intentional use of PFAS, a new limit value for total fluorine (TF) is effective as of January 1, 2024, replacing the previous parameter for extractable organic fluorine (EOF). Other criteria for microplastics, GMOs and SVHC alignment have been added.

PFAS - New limit value for the total fluorine content

With the widespread use of PFAS and potential impact on human health and the environment, rapid adjustments are required. OEKO-TEX® has replaced the extractable organic fluorine (EOF) method with total fluorine. The new limit value of 100 mg/kg affects OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, ECO PASSPORT, LEATHER STANDARD and ORGANIC COTTON as of January 1, 2024. This update enables all OEKO-TEX® certifications to remain compliant with the U.S. regulations on PFAS.

OEKO-TEX® STeP: Avoiding release of microplastics

The updated OEKO-TEX® STeP standard will require certified production facilities to mitigate and prevent the release of microplastics from manufacturing processes through active risk identification and management. Microplastics (synthetic fibres less than five millimetres in length) pollution threatens aquatic ecosystems, marine organisms and human health. Microplastics can be released from textiles and clothing during both laundering and production. By addressing the complex challenges posed by microplastics at every stage of the production process, the STeP standard aims to foster a harmonious collaboration between industrial practices and environmental preservation and support and create a call to action for STeP certified facilities.

OEKO-TEX® STeP: Further cooperation with ZDHC

OEKO-TEX® and ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Program) continue to increase their collaboration. In 2024, OEKO-TEX® STeP certified companies will receive new discounts for the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Program:

- ZDHC Foundation Level (Level 1) - Fee waived for STeP certified facilities.

- ZDHC Progressive Level (Level 2) - 50% discount for STeP certified facilities.

Certified STeP companies wishing to participate should contact their OEKO-TEX® testing institute.

OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD: Traceability of leather materials

In line with the new European Union (EU) regulation on deforestation-free supply chains, the OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD will increase emphasis on the traceability of leather materials and require proof of origin for materials. Worldwide, an area larger than the EU has been deforested over the last three decades. The EU Deforestation-free Regulation (EUDR) (Regulation (EU) 2023/1115), adopted in summer 2023, includes strict due diligence obligations for companies placing certain raw materials and products on - or exporting from - the European market.

OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON: Adjustment of the limit values for genetically modified cotton

The OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON certification is aimed at reliable labelling of organic cotton textiles. After qualitative DNA analysis determines if a sample contains genetically modified cotton, quantification shows the proportion of genetically modified cotton. In addition to testing for harmful substances, OEKOTEX® ORGANIC COTTON will require less than five percent genetically modified material, a decrease from the previous limit of ten percent. The new limit value still accounts for unavoidable impurities.

Updates in the limit value catalogues

New substances of very high concern (SVHC) were added to the limit value catalogues for the STANDARD 100, LEATHER STANDARD, ORGANIC COTTON and ECO PASSPORT certifications. For example, Bis(4-chlorophenyl) sulphone and the solvent 1,4-dioxane can have serious effects on human health and the environment.

The new regulations 2024 for OEKO-TEX® standards are available in detail at www.oeko-tex.com/news

In addition, OEKO-TEX® will explain the changes in a public webinar on 16 January 2024.

OEKO-TEX® chooses TextileGenesis to advance digital traceability for organic cotton

OEKO-TEX® today announced a full collaboration with TextileGenesis, a Lectra company, to digitally trace and authenticate organic cotton, strengthening fraud prevention across the supply chain. This announcement follows a successful pilot and brings together OEKO-TEX®’s certification expertise and closed testing system with TextileGenesis’ digital traceability platform to deliver a secure, end-to-end solution for managing certified organic cotton flows.

OEKO-TEX® - New regulations 2025

Fostering trust within the textile and leather industry remains the mission of OEKO-TEX®. Since trust relies on consistently high standards, the OEKO-TEX® Association has released the updated testing criteria, limit values and guidelines for its certifications, based on the latest scientific research and legal developments.

OEKO-TEX® Annual Report 2023/2024 mentions 50,000+ valid certifications

The international OEKO-TEX® association has continued to demonstrate positive business growth, highlighting the critical role of close collaboration and shared commitment in accelerating sustainable change. More than 35,000 textile and leather companies depend on the certificates and product labels issued by OEKO-TEX®’s independent testing institutes. OEKO-TEX® issued more than 50,000 certificates and labels between July 1, 2023, and June 30, 2024 – an increase of 22% over the previous financial year.

VAUDE eliminates PFAS from all products

PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are now detectable worldwide – in drinking water, soil and the human body. These so-called “forever chemicals” are considered hazardous to health and potentially carcinogenic, as they do not break down and remain in the environment permanently. Despite these risks, PFAS are still used in a wide range of products. More than 15 years ago, VAUDE made a strategic decision to gradually eliminate PFAS from all product categories.

ICAC to support European Commission on pending PEF legislation

The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) is proud to announce that it has been included as a member of the European Commission’s Technical Advisory Board (TAB) on the Product Environmental Footprint methodology. The Commission developed the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) to assess and communicate the life cycle environmental performance of products and organizations.

ENDURANCE Program: Driving operational sustainability at Magnera

As Magnera enters a new year, the company is reflecting on a key sustainability milestone from 2025: the launch of ENDURANCE, its global, employee-led initiative focused on waste reduction and sustainable innovation. Launched on Earth Day 2025, this initiative has generated more than 250 improvement submissions from team members across Magnera’s global operations, demonstrating strong engagement and shared accountability for sustainability across the organization.

“Action helps us change what we do!”

DAY 0 takes place deliberately before PERFORMANCE DAYS begins. It is conceived as a space for reflection, dialogue and active engagement — a moment to pause before the fair, rethink established systems and address sustainability not as a trend, but as a fundamental transformation challenge. Under the guiding metaphor “Turn the Tap Off”, DAY 0 focuses on root causes rather than symptoms, systemic change rather than isolated solutions, and collective responsibility rather than individual silos.

Pets in fashion: functional and sustainable textiles find new market at Intertextile Apparel

China’s pet economy is booming, especially amongst younger generations, and pet apparel – from designer outfits to functional garments – was a RMB 3.5 billion (over USD 500 million) market in 2024, growing more than 20% annually¹. To help exhibitors harness this trend, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2026 will launch the Pet Boutique, presenting a range of innovative, sustainable materials that prioritise both functionality and comfort for pets.

Lenzing AG to become majority owner of TreeToTextile AB and accelerates industrialization of new fibers

The Lenzing Group is taking another strategic milestone by acquiring a controlling majority in the Swedish innovation company TreeToTextile AB. This step strengthens Lenzing’s position as a leading provider of sustainable, wood‑based specialty fibers and expands its innovation pipeline with a highly scalable, patent‑protected technology platform. The transaction is executed through the issuance of new shares.